After Turkey, I thought that no other field trip would be even mildly impressive. We were so spoiled on that trip that we ran the risk of becoming 'site snobs'. I was much less familiar with our Jordan destinations that I had been with Turkey's, so I didn't quite know what to expect. To make a long story short, Jordan exceeded all expectations.
Day 1: Mt. Nebo, Madaba, and Machaerus
Ironically, the first thing we did after crossing into Jordan was find a good vantage point for looking back into Israel. Mt. Nebo was the place from which Moses viewed the promised land at the end of his life (Deut 34:1-4). Moses is a key figure for Jews, Muslims, and Christians, and it was interesting to see people of different faiths at the site. All three of these groups also regard the site as the burial place of Moses, but we decided to refrain from reading Alma 45:19 with the monks there. One day they'll get the full story.
I look pretty Moses-y, right? Besides the Hawaiian shirt. And the fishing hat. And the earbuds hanging out of my pocket. And...you get the idea. Incidentally, the thing right behind me is a representation of the brass serpent on the pole that Moses raised up in the wilderness.
If only I had gotten a better grade in Greek 101... (The mosaic is from a Byzantine church that was at the site.)
Our next trip was to Madaba, the site of an interesting church with an even more interesting map. Apparently Madaba was a frequent stop for early Christian pilgrims on their way to visit the Holy Land, and the floor of the Byzantine church of St. George provided them with their first map of popular pilgrimage sites. It remains the earliest discovered representation of the Holy Land. It has been used by many historians/archaeologists in their efforts to identify various sites, and it has been used by even more souvenir peddlers as a magent/T-shirt design in every shop of Jerusalem.
The big circle to the right of my head is Jerusalem.
The saddest site of our trip was probably Machaerus. According to the Jewish historian Josephus, Macheaerus was a Herodian fortress where John the Baptist was imprisoned and eventually beheaded. We took time at the site to discuss the life and ministry of this remarkable man. As Jesus put it, "Among them that are born of women there hath not risen a greater than John the Baptist." Not only did we talk about John's earthly ministry, but we also discussed the pivotal role that John played in the Restoration, particularly the restoration of the priesthood.
This is a good place to introduce Professor Steve Harper, my New Testament professor. He's really a professor of Church History and Doctrine, and yet he rattles off ancient history like it's his area of scholarly expertise. He's seriously one of the smartest men I've ever met. We don't give him a moment to himself on these field trips: we're constantly pestering him with questions about life, the universe, and everything.
Sean (my roommate) and I are standing at the possible site of Matt. 14:6-9, where the daughter of Herodias danced for Herod, and where he rashly promised her whatever she desired. We tried to convince Avery and Ashley to reenact that dance, but they were content with just sneaking into our man photo.
Day 2: Probably the Best Day of my Life
You might think I'm exaggerating, but I'm not so sure that I am. I've traveled around a little bit in my life. I feel like I've seen some awesome stuff. But nothing, nothing has ever blown me away quite like Petra. In my opinion, it belongs at the top of the list of world wonders. No joke.
Me and fellow ANES major Sara, venturing into the Siq, the slot canyon leading into Petra.
Petra was the capital of the Nabataean Empire, an Arab civilization that dominated trade in the region in the centuries preceeding and following Christ. They grew wealthy by linking the eastern markets of China and India to Mediterranian coastal cities. And what did they do with all that wealth? They built the awesomest city ever to be conceived, in one of the coolest places God ever created.
Al-Khazneh, also known as the Treasury. It was built partially as a tomb for a Nabataean king, partially as a monument to inspire awe in anyone who ventured into Petra (which it still does), and partially to serve as the backdrop for the climactic end of Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade.
Just to prove I was actually here.
Photos just don't do justice to the immensity of the site. This place is enormous, and the scenery is spectacular. Just imagine if the Nephites had carved the city of Zarahemla into the canyon walls of Zion National Park.
This building is known as the Monastery, hence our pious attitudes.
Personally, I feel like this photo is epicness incarnate.
Breanne is condemning me to death in the Great Temple, which was actually used for governmental meetings and theatrical performances. (I guess this qualifies as both.)
At the overlook of the High Place of Sacrifice, close to the traditional tomb of Aaron.
In short, Petra was awesome. I took about a million more photos, but as I learned recently, my photo storage space is limited, so I'll spare you. But seriously, I feel like everyone in the world deserves the chance to visit at least once in their lives. It was a mind-blowing combination of fantastic ruins and stunning scenery.
On the road from Petra to Amman, we stopped at Shoubak Castle, built in 1115 by the crusader King Baldwin I of Jerusalem. While I have a rather low opinion of the crusaders themselves, you just can't beat awesome castles.
I'm photoshopping that trashcan out as soon as I get home.
Me and Emily after storming the battlements.
Day 3: Amman, Jerash, Jabbok River
Amman, the capital of Jordan, is very much a 21st century city, but at the heart of the modern metropolis are ruins which date back nearly to the beginnings of civilization itself. There was quite a bit on the old city acropolis worth seeing, but the most impressive site for us was the Hellenistic temple of Hercules.
All that's left of the giant marble statue that stood in the Temple of Hercules is the hand. Most of the girls took the opportunity to hold Hercules's hand, but I'd say mine is just as buff.
If they ever decide to reconstruct the Hercules statue here, they'll probably use this photo as a model.
We went a bit north of Amman later on to visit the Jabbok River. This site is where Jacob and his family crossed over on their way back to Canaan (and the fateful confrontation with Esau). Its biggest claim to fame, however, is as the site of Jacob's wrestling match with an angel and subsequent designation as Israel.
Naturally, my roommate Ryan and I had to get a wrestling picture here. (I'm winning, in case you can't tell.)
We discussed Genesis 32:24-32 as a possibly esoteric text. Elder Marion G. Romney taught that "temples are to us all what Bethel was to Jacob," and some LDS scholars have suggested that Jacob's experience at the Jabbok was a continuation of that temple experience. In short, there's more going on here than what meets the eye.
After chilling by the river, we drove up to one of the best-preserved Roman cities in the world: Jerash. I keep feeling afraid that I'll start feeling ruin fatigue at some point, but it sure didn't set in during this trip: Jerash was amazing.
Our group inside the Roman theater at Jerash.
Ancient Roman city. Traditionally-dressed Jordanians. Bagpipes. Mormons.Yankee Doodle Dandy. We don't ask questions on this trip; we just dance.
Me at the temple of Zeus. Incidentally, it was built with the same basic tripartate design as the temple in Jerusalem, with a holy place and holy of holies. Nifty, eh?
Party at the temple!
Me and my fellow adventurers overlooking the Cardo Maximus, aka Jerash Central.
The arch of Hadrian at the entrance of the city. From what Brother Ludlow said, they've had to do very little reconstruction work on this: it has largely remained standing all these years.
The Romans just knew how to do monumental architecture.
At the end of the day, our tour guide took us to the Royal Automobile Museum. Apparently the Hashemite monarchs are big fans of classy cars. While I do prefer ruins, taking this one for a test drive wouldn't be too bad.
Day 4: Theater of Amman, Baptismal Site
On the way out of town, we stopped at the theater of Amman, which is the largest Roman theater in Jordan. We sang a couple hymns to test out the acoustics...and then entertained the Jordanian tourist police with a rousing rendition of the BYU fight song (to be posted on YouTube shortly).
On the way back towards Israel, we stopped at perhaps the most spiritually significant site: the traditional site of Jesus's baptism in the river Jordan. Our tour guide said it was 107 degrees (in the shade), but we still managed to feel the Spirit while we were sweating buckets.
A lot of the religious sites we've visited as a group have been very touristy and commercialized, but this one almost felt like an LDS church history site: very reverent and spiritual. We read from the gospels and 2 Nephi 31, sung some traditional baptismal hymns, and took some time to sit and ponder.
The Greek Orthodox church at the site. Note the dove mosaic on the roof.
We were told that these were the bones of John the Baptist. We just smiled and whispered "D&C 13" to each other as we filed through the church.
The church at the baptismal site also commemorated another awesome event that occured near the Jordan river: the ascension of Elijah to heaven in a chariot of fire. I thought this artistic rendition of the event was pretty legit.
And that's Jordan! Once again, evidence that I am the luckiest man alive. And the fun doesn't stop: we're off to Bethlehem in two more days!
